Lettuce is Exhausted
A char is born
When I queued up “Broccoli” to get in the mood for writing this newsletter, I truly wasn’t expecting to hear a lyric written specifically for me. But there it was, as though DRAM and Lil Yachty were hanging with me in the kitchen:
All she want to do is smoke that broccoli
If we’re talking about today’s recipe/video, it couldn’t be more true! Technically, I want to char that broccoli until it is smoking—and I’d also recommend opening a window before carbonizing your cruciferous (or whatever).
This is one of those recipes that people love to comment “BURNT” when you post the photo, and I’m willing to wade into that charcoal-grey area to prove a point. First of all (say it with me): it’s not BURNED, it’s CHARRED. Pointing out the difference makes you sound smart, not petty. At least that’s what I tell myself.
More importantly, this sleeper hit from Where Cooking Begins exists to remind us that broccoli is endlessly versatile, and with one simple technique, you can deliver multiple textures and a whole spectrum of tastes.
Once again, we’re delving into my patented Kill It On The First Side method, which is when you focus 90% of the cook time on one side of whatever ingredient you’re cooking to max out the browning or crisping. (Last week it was these chicken thighs.) As the surface of the broccoli gradually takes on color and dances on the edge of darkness, the flavor evolves from vegetal, slightly bitter, and sharp, to mellow, sweet, and caramelly. Where the color is darkest, the broccoli is buttery-soft. As you move into the thicker part of the stem and crown, it becomes more firm, and all the way at the furthest side, it is essentially raw, and very crisp.
Multiple textures make eating more entertaining. Everybody knows that! Croutons on tomato soup. Fluffy pita with creamy baba ganoush. Cracker and Jack. What I love about charring broccoli is that it delivers textural payoff without requiring you to throw a bunch of ingredients at the problem.
In fact, all of the other elements in this salad are working hard to contribute something specific to the flavor profile as well as creating lots of fun bites. Crunchy almonds round things out by being sweet, fatty, and salty. Chewy dates are sweet and earthy. Creamy, firm cheese brings the salty and nutty notes. Team players, every one of them. Hopefully that sells you on the salad. Make it!
Segueing for just a beat to discuss equipment. Cast-iron. That’s the equipment. If you are not already in possession, this material is amazing for everyday cooking. It gets very hot and stays hot, and can be dispatched for searing, stir-frying, confiting, roasting, shallow-frying, and even baking, too. I use my 10-inch Lodge cast iron skillet ($22) several times a week—in fact I used it tonight to cook off a couple of lovely pork chops. Charring on the grill is also a great option. Charring in a stainless skillet is going to lead to a rough cleanup. Charring in nonstick is basically impossible due to the properties of that surface, so don’t bother trying.
Talk soon,
Carla